FoodAbidjan

Open-air restaurants and attiéké with grilled fish

Maquis · Attiéké poisson braisé

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A maquis is an Ivorian open-air restaurant whose signature is grilled fish or chicken with attiéké (fermented cassava grains), chilli sauce and raw onion and tomato. The street version, fried tuna with attiéké, is called garba. In December 2024 the know-how of making attiéké was inscribed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Attiéké is a tradition of the southern lagoon peoples, made and sold mostly by women; 'maquis' originally meant 'bush' and came to mean a people's restaurant.

CE QUE VOUS VERREZ · What you will see

Plastic chairs by the road at night, charcoal and whole grilled fish with a plate of off-white, slightly sour grains, and Coupé-décalé blasting from the speakers.

POURQUOI · So what

The maquis is the centre of Abidjan's social life, where bosses, officials and students all sit. Knowing maquis says more about being a local than knowing five-star restaurants.

SAVOIR-FAIRE · How to use it

A good maquis meal often stays with Asian guests longer than a fine restaurant. Eat with your right hand and order a local beer.

Asian and European parallelsLike Taiwan's re-chao stir-fry restaurants or a Japanese izakaya: real socialising happens here, not in formal restaurants.

Where to experience itFamous places in Yopougon, Marcory and Cocody; ask a local friend to take you to their regular spot.

On these routes

A Day of the Ivorian Miracle