What Is a Maquis? Côte d'Ivoire's Open-Air Eatery Culture, and How to Order and Pay on Your First Visit

If you want to get to know everyday life in Côte d'Ivoire (in West Africa, French-speaking, the world's largest cocoa producer), the most direct way in is the maquis. It is a distinctly local kind of open-air eatery, ranging from a few plastic tables and chairs by the roadside to night spots with DJs and neon lights — yet the menu always revolves around a handful of home-style dishes.

Where the name comes from

In French, maquis originally means "scrubland" or "bush". There is more than one explanation of how it came to name an eatery; one is that these early places were simple stopovers for farmers coming into town from the surrounding areas. It also has a playful nickname, "cul par terre" — roughly "backside on the ground" — describing its relaxed, no-frills atmosphere.

Early maquis were mostly makeshift shelters, fenced with corrugated iron, shaded by trees, with recycled materials for tables and chairs. Many have since been upgraded into walled, decorated restaurants, but the food has changed little. One outlet described the maquis as "the format of a Parisian bistro with the home cooking of an African village": modest places set plastic tables and chairs out on the pavement, while more upmarket ones might serve steak with a French cream sauce.

The clientele cuts across every walk of life: young and old, office workers and students, diplomats and businesspeople often sit along the same long table. Heading to a maquis after work to enjoy the evening breeze and stay for hours is how many locals unwind; on busy nights, customers spill out onto the pavement. Neighbouring maquis also have a tacit habit of helping one another: if one runs out of a drink or an ingredient, it will often simply borrow some from next door.

What appears on the table

A maquis menu is usually short, built around two core dishes:

The grilled dishes are usually topped with sautéed tomato and onion, and served with attiéké (steamed cassava granules) or alloco (fried plantain). Other common dishes include kedjenou (stewed chicken or meat), peanut soup, and starchy staples such as foutou and foufou served with sauce. For drinks, sodas from the fridge, bissap made from hibiscus, and beer are all common choices. In the evening, some places also have roving musicians known as "guitareurs" who play and sing between the tables. Dessert is usually simple, mostly fresh fruit.

Your first visit: ordering and paying

• Ordering: the menu is short, so simply ask the staff what is available today, choose grilled chicken or grilled fish, then say whether you want attiéké or alloco on the side. Kedjenou may be made with chicken, fish, guinea fowl or even game, so ask which meat it is when you order.
• Not sure what to choose: ask the staff to recommend the day's speciality, or have a local friend show you the ropes — your first visit will be much easier.
• Be patient: dishes are mostly cooked to order and take a while to arrive — a good chance to chat.
• Eating with your hands: locals usually eat with their hands, but places generally have cutlery too. If you use your hands, remember to use only your right hand. Staff will often bring a bowl of water and soap for you to wash your hands.
• Paying: besides cash, Côte d'Ivoire's mobile payment service Wave is pushing hard for merchants to accept QR-code payments, even small garba stalls. If you are not sure whether you can pay by QR code, it is safest to ask before you eat.

One line for Asian readers

A maquis is a bit like a lively Asian stir-fry eatery combined with a roadside barbecue stall: a short menu and a buzzing atmosphere. The moment you sit down, you step into everyday Ivorian life.

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References: Wikipedia: Ivorian cuisine; Malay Mail: In the maquis eateries of Abidjan, change is coming… but not to the menu; Indie Travel Podcast: Maquis; Christian Science Monitor: Ivory Coast Cafes Attract Lingering Locals; Abidjan.net: Wave Côte d'Ivoire lance une campagne de promotion du paiement auprès des marchands